A
quasi-historical note: Mandailing, spelled here "correctly,"
is technically an ethnic group in Indonesia, not a region. The
coffee is called Mandheling from tradition, based on a perhaps
mythical encounter between occupying Japanese soldiers and Mandailing
coffee shop owners. When asking what the excellent coffee the
were being served was, the owner misunderstood and thought they
were asking what HE was.
His reply was, of course "Mandailing". Later a former
Japanese soldier contacted a businessperson in Sumatra after
the war, and asked if the excellent coffee "Mandheling"
was commercially available.
The broker was the famed Pwani, and they shipped 15 tons of
coffee to Japan that year. But can you see the great irony here?
The person that desired the great "Mandheling" coffee
actually created it in the act of asking for it. (Higher quality
all-arabica coffee was never exported from Indonesia before
this). The authenticity of the coffee was based not on its true
origin, cultivar, or other "real" determinations of
cup character, but in the language of this initial exchange.
Of course, over time Mandheling has come to mean a lot, and
have very specific cup qualities. But you will find a similar
situation with Yemeni brokers who blend coffees for US importers
seeking "Mocca".
Its
suited to US tastes, a milder cup for softer palettes from a
blend of Yemeni origins, not too wild in the cup. BTW: the above
story is from a Sumatran source, but in fact the 1903 Sears
Wholesale Grocery Catalog listed "Java Mandailing"
for sale (it was common until recently to call all Indonesian
coffees Java such-and-such, like Java Timor or Java Kallosi
etc) so Mandailing was definitely in use long before the '50s.